The sky was a deep burnt orange, as the sun set over the calm, glass like sea of the Gulf of Thailand.  As we gazed at this, the best sunset I have seen in many years, the full moon rose up in the sky behind us.  This was the full moon of Loi Krathong, the last of the year and the Thai Buddhist festival of that name.  Its origins go back millennia to the same sources as the Hindu festival of Diwalee. 

Many, many thousands of people crowded the beaches of Pattaya, Jomtien and Bang Suray.  Every available parking space was filled with vehicles the entire length of the road, some playing loud dance music.  Families layed out mats on which to eat a picnic dinner and from where they’d watch the evening’s spectacle.  All the restaurants along Jomtien Beach Road, were full of people and displayed huge bowls of orchids and candles on every table.  The weather was perfect, not too hot and a soft breeze blowing from the east and out to sea.  The tide was going out, on which to carry the floats.

As it got dark, the first Loi Krathong were lit and floated on the water by the children.  These are little round floats, made of woven banana leaves, filled with flowers, mainly orchids, with a candle in the centre.  As they are released, a wish is made.  If you wish for more money in your life or business, you place small coins in the float.  But if you wish for better health, you place nail clippings or small pieces of skin from the person for whose health you are making the wish!  It is said that this is the surest way of having your wish come true!

Soon the sea was a mass of floating candles and flowers!  Then as the adults continued the process, others started lighting the burners in their paper lanterns and releasing them into the air!  Thousands upon thousands of lanterns were released, one it seemed, for every man woman and child on the beach.  Fireworks were set off all along the shoreline; some made loud bangs others, rocket like, exploded high in the sky, raining sparkles down over the sea.

The traffic came to a complete standstill in both directions, as drivers looked for somewhere to park in vein.  People danced around their cars to the loud music, under the palm trees.  Thailand is famous for its Full Moon Parties, but this is the biggest one of the year and indeed, is rivalled only by New Year’s Eve itself!  It all went on late into the night, with the last of the revellers still going home at 7:30am, as I took my partner to work!

C. Rich 13.11.08

Tags: Travel Lanterns Firworks Float

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